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Are Solar Panels Worth It in 2026?

The 30% federal credit is gone for new home systems. Here's how long solar now takes to pay for itself, what moves that number, and how cash, loans and leases compare.

By the HomeOutlay team Updated 11 min read

The short answer

  • The federal Residential Clean Energy Credit (25D) does not apply to systems placed in service after December 31, 2025. A home system installed in 2026 gets no federal credit.
  • Paying cash at $3.00 per watt, payback in our model runs from about 6 years in Hawaii to 11 years in Texas and 16 to 17 years in Washington and North Dakota.
  • Solar pays best with high electric rates, a sunny, unshaded south roof, full net metering and state or utility incentives.
  • Losing net metering can hurt more than losing the credit: in our Texas example, it stretches payback from 10.9 to 15.7 years.
  • Loans and leases can work, but only if the payment is below what the panels save. Always ask for the cash price.

What changed: the end of the 30% credit

From 2022 through 2025, the Residential Clean Energy Credit took 30% off the cost of solar panels, solar water heaters and home batteries. The budget law signed on July 4, 2025, moved its end date from 2034 to the end of 2025. The IRS now states that the credit "is not available for any property placed in service after December 31, 2025," and that you claim it for the year a system is installed, not the year you paid for it.

What that means for you:

  • Installed and working by December 31, 2025: claim 30% on your 2025 return with Form 5695. If the credit was bigger than your tax bill, the unused part carries forward to later years.
  • Installed in 2026 or later: no federal credit, even if you signed the contract or paid a deposit in 2025.
  • Leased panels and power purchase agreements: the company that owns the system claims a separate business credit (section 48E), not you. Under the same law, solar projects generally keep that credit if they began construction by early July 2026 or are placed in service by the end of 2027. Some of that value may still show up in lease and PPA prices through 2027.

Be wary of any salesperson in 2026 who promises you a 30% federal tax credit on panels you buy for your home. Ask them to show you the IRS rule in writing.

How long solar takes to pay off now, by state

These results come from our solar payback calculator with the same inputs for every state: 900 kWh a month (about the U.S. average), a system sized to cover 100% of yearly use, $3.00 per watt installed, no incentives, rates rising 3% a year and panels losing 0.5% of output a year. California, Arizona and Hawaii use net billing (half the power used at home, exports credited at 30% of retail). All other states assume full net metering.

StateAvg. rateSystem, costYear-1 savingsPayback25-yr net
Hawaii46.41¢6.8 kW, $20,400$3,4015.7 yr$95,600
Massachusetts30.19¢8.4 kW, $25,200$3,2667.1 yr$86,600
New York29.26¢8.8 kW, $26,400$3,1677.6 yr$82,100
California32.58¢6.8 kW, $20,400$2,4287.7 yr$62,400
New Jersey24.09¢8.4 kW, $25,200$2,6068.7 yr$64,000
Texas16.03¢7.2 kW, $21,600$1,73710.9 yr$38,100
Florida15.32¢7.2 kW, $21,600$1,67011.2 yr$36,400
Illinois19.23¢9.6 kW, $28,800$2,09211.9 yr$43,600
Arizona15.36¢6.0 kW, $18,000$1,11113.8 yr$19,900
Washington14.42¢10.0 kW, $30,000$1,56415.8 yr$23,900
North Dakota12.46¢9.2 kW, $27,600$1,34816.7 yr$18,500

"25-yr net" is total savings over 25 years minus what you paid, before inverter replacement and without discounting future dollars. Arizona shows why sun alone isn't enough: it is one of the sunniest states, but cheap power and low export credits put it near the bottom.

A worked example: Texas

Texas averages 5.4 peak sun hours. One kilowatt of panels makes about 5.4 × 365 × 0.77 = 1,518 kWh a year after real-world losses. A home using 10,800 kWh a year needs 7.1 kW, which rounds up to eighteen 400-watt panels, or 7.2 kW. At $3.00 per watt, that's $21,600. Valued at 16.03¢ per kWh, the system saves about $1,737 in year one, and the running total passes $21,600 at about 10.9 years. Under the old 30% credit, the same system would have cost $15,120 and paid back in about 7.9 years. So the credit's end added about three years in Texas.

Run it for your own homeOur solar payback calculator uses your state, usage, quote and export credit.

The five numbers that decide it

Change one input at a time on the Texas example and you can see what really matters:

Change from the Texas examplePayback25-yr net
Base case: $3.00/W, full net metering, rates +3%/yr10.9 yr$38,100
Price drops to $2.60 per watt9.6 yr$41,000
Price rises to $3.60 per watt12.8 yr$33,800
Net billing: 50% used at home, exports at 30% of retail15.7 yr$17,200
Net billing, but 70% used at home13.4 yr$25,600
Electric rates never rise12.7 yr$19,600
Electric rates rise 5% a year10.0 yr$56,200
Old 30% federal credit (for comparison)7.9 yr$44,600
  1. Your electric rate. It sets the value of every kWh. At 30¢ you save about twice as much per panel as at 15¢. Use the energy charge from your bill, not the total divided by kWh, because fixed monthly fees don't go away with solar.
  2. How exports are credited. Under full net metering, power you send to the grid at noon offsets power you buy at night at the full rate. Under net billing, exports earn less. California moved new customers to net billing in 2023, and other utilities have followed. Ask your utility for its current tariff before you sign anything.
  3. Price per watt. Compare quotes on cost per watt, not the total. Marketplace quotes averaged about $2.60 per watt in 2026, while Berkeley Lab's median for owner-bought systems installed in 2025 was about $3.60.
  4. Sun and shade. The state averages assume a south-facing, unshaded roof. East or west roofs make roughly 10% to 20% less. Heavy shade can cut much more.
  5. How long you stay. If you'll move before the payback year, you're betting that buyers will pay you back for the panels. Some do, but it isn't guaranteed.

State, utility and local incentives

With the federal credit gone, local programs carry more weight. They come and go, and many have budgets that run out. The forms they take:

  • Rebates from a state energy office or utility, paid per watt or as a flat amount. A $2,000 rebate on the Massachusetts example cuts payback from 7.1 to 6.6 years.
  • State tax credits, sometimes a percentage of cost with a dollar cap.
  • Performance payments, such as solar renewable energy certificates (SRECs), paid for each MWh your system makes in states that have them.
  • Property tax exemptions, so the added home value doesn't raise your tax bill, and sales tax exemptions on equipment.

The best place to look is DSIRE, the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency, run by the N.C. Clean Energy Technology Center at NC State University. Search your ZIP code, then confirm each program on the agency's or utility's own site. Enter any rebate or state credit in the calculator's incentive fields.

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Cash, loan, lease or PPA

OptionWho owns itUpfrontMain trade-off
CashYouFull priceBiggest lifetime savings; you handle repairs after warranties
LoanYouLittle or noneInterest and hidden fees can eat the savings
LeaseThe companyLittle or noneFixed monthly payment, often with a yearly increase; around 20-year contract
PPAThe companyLittle or noneYou pay per kWh the panels make, usually below the utility rate

Loans. Check whether the payment beats the savings. Our Texas system ($21,600) financed at an example rate of 8% for 20 years costs $181 a month, or $43,400 in total. It saves about $145 a month in year one. Money flows out until rising rates close the gap. In August 2024 the CFPB reported that many solar loans hide "dealer fees" in the loan amount, often pushing the cost 30% or more above the cash price, and that the fees often don't appear in the advertised APR. A 20% fee on our example raises the payment to $217. Ask every installer for the cash price, and compare with a loan from your own bank or credit union.

Leases and PPAs. You save from day one if the payment is below what the panels would save, and the company maintains the system. The FTC lists the catches: you don't own the system, you can't claim incentives, payments can rise every year, and leaving early can be hard and costly. Do two checks. First, compare the first-year payment with your first-year savings. Second, compare the yearly escalator with how fast your utility rates rise. A 2.9% escalator against 2% rate growth eats your savings over 20 years.

Selling the house. Owned panels go with the house. A loan is usually paid off at closing. A lease or PPA must be taken over by the buyer, often after a credit check, or bought out. Read the transfer terms before you sign.

When solar usually isn't worth it

  • Your roof has less than about 10 years left. Replace it first, or plan on paying thousands to remove and reinstall the panels later. Our roofing calculator prices a new roof.
  • Trees or neighboring buildings shade the roof for much of the day.
  • Your power costs less than about 13¢ per kWh and exports earn little.
  • You expect to move within a few years.
  • The payback in an honest calculation runs past 15 years. Inverters and repairs often cost money before year 25.

Cutting use is usually cheaper than making power. Check what each appliance costs with the electric bill calculator before you size a system. If you plan to buy an electric car, run the EV charging cost calculator too, because the extra use changes the right system size and makes daytime solar more valuable.

Getting quotes, and when to call a pro

  • Get at least three quotes and compare price per watt, panel and inverter warranties, production estimates and who handles permits and the utility hookup.
  • Check the production estimate yourself with NREL's PVWatts tool or our calculator. A quote that promises more kWh than the sun allows is a red flag.
  • Walk away from pressure to sign the same day, contracts you can't take home to read, and promises of "free" solar or a federal credit that no longer exists.
  • Check the installer's license with your state contractor board and complaints with your attorney general.

Solar is a licensed-pro job for most homes. A grid-tied system needs a building and electrical permit, an inspection under the National Electrical Code and the utility's approval before it turns on. Panels make voltage whenever light hits them, so DIY work on wiring and the main panel isn't a place to learn.

Common questions

Is solar still worth it in 2026 without the tax credit?

Often yes, but less often than before. Paying cash at about $3 per watt, a typical home pays back in roughly 6 to 11 years where electricity costs 20 cents or more per kWh, and 13 to 17 years where it is cheap or exports earn little. If your payback runs past about 15 years, or you may move soon, the case gets weak.

Can I still claim the solar tax credit if my system was installed in 2025?

Yes. The IRS says the Residential Clean Energy Credit applies to property placed in service by December 31, 2025. Claim it on your 2025 return with Form 5695. If the credit is larger than your tax, you can carry the unused part forward to later years.

Is it better to lease or buy solar panels now?

Buying with cash gives the most savings over 25 years if you have the money and plan to stay. A lease or power purchase agreement needs no upfront cash, and the company that owns the panels may still claim a business tax credit, but you keep only part of the savings and the contract can complicate a sale. Compare the lease payment and its yearly increase with what the system would save you.

Does a solar loan save money?

Only if the monthly payment is lower than the monthly savings, which is hard at today's rates. A $21,600 system financed at 8 percent for 20 years costs about $181 a month, while the same system saves about $145 a month in its first year in Texas. Ask for the cash price too, because the CFPB found hidden dealer fees can add 30 percent or more to solar loans.

What happens to solar panels when you sell your house?

If you own them outright, they stay with the house and are part of the sale. With a loan, you usually pay it off at closing. With a lease or power purchase agreement, the buyer must agree to take over the contract, often after a credit check, or you may have to buy it out. Read the transfer terms before you sign.

Where can I find solar incentives in my state?

DSIRE, the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency run by NC State University, lists state, utility and local rebates, tax credits, property and sales tax exemptions and net metering rules, searchable by ZIP code. Also check your utility's website for its current export credit.

Sources

Checked October 29, 2026. Payback figures come from the HomeOutlay solar payback calculator; its own "Sources and assumptions" section documents sun hours, rates and losses. The 8% loan rate and the $2,000 rebate are examples, not market data. This guide is educational and isn't tax or financial advice.

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