The short answer
- Water: vinyl plank wins. Its plastic core does not swell. Laminate has a wood-fiber core that can swell at the joints if water sits on it, even in "water-resistant" lines.
- Scratches: laminate wins. Its hard melamine top shrugs off grit and dog claws better than the clear vinyl film on top of most vinyl plank.
- Cost: laminate is a little cheaper, about $1.50 to $3 per sq ft against $2 to $5 for vinyl plank. Labor is about the same, $1.50 to $4 per sq ft for either.
- Rule of thumb: vinyl plank for kitchens, baths, laundry rooms and basements. Laminate for living rooms, bedrooms and homes with big dogs, if the room stays dry.
What each floor is made of
Both floors are "pictures of wood." A printed design layer sits under a clear protective top, and the planks click together and float over the subfloor without nails or glue. The difference is the core, and the core decides almost everything else.
Laminate has a core of high-density fiberboard (HDF): wood fibers pressed with resin. On top is a photo layer and a hard, clear melamine wear layer. Underneath is a backing layer that keeps the plank flat. Because the core is made of wood fiber, water that gets into a joint or a cut edge can make it swell. Newer laminates add water-repellent coatings and tighter joints, and that helps a lot, but the core is still wood.
Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) is made of PVC plastic. Most of what big-box stores sell today is rigid core: a stiff core of stone-plastic composite (SPC) or wood-plastic composite (WPC), a printed vinyl layer, a clear vinyl wear layer on top and often a foam or cork pad attached underneath. The core does not absorb water. Flexible "glue-down" vinyl plank also exists, but for a DIY floating floor, rigid core is what people mean by LVP.
Side-by-side comparison
| Laminate | Vinyl plank (rigid core) | |
|---|---|---|
| Core | Wood fiber (HDF) | PVC with stone or wood filler |
| Standing water | Can swell at joints; check the rating | Planks are waterproof; water can still get under them |
| Scratches and scuffs | Very good, hard melamine top | Fair to good, depends on wear layer |
| Dents from heavy loads | Good | Fair; points under heavy furniture can dent |
| Strong sun and heat | Fine in most rooms | Can fade and expand; makers ask for blinds |
| Underlayment | Foam pad, unless one is attached | Usually attached |
| Material cost | $1.50–$3 per sq ft | $2–$5 per sq ft |
| Pro install | $1.50–$4 per sq ft | $1.50–$4 per sq ft |
| Best rooms | Living, bedrooms, halls, offices | Kitchen, bath, laundry, basement, mudroom |
Prices are 2025–2026 US ranges for the floor itself and for labor; see the sources at the end. Tearing out an old floor, leveling the subfloor and stairs are extra.
Water: the real difference
This is the reason most people pick vinyl plank, and it is a good reason. A spill that sits on laminate overnight can soak into a joint and lift the edges of the planks. That damage does not go back down. A vinyl plank core does not absorb water, so the same spill wipes up with no trace.
Two things get lost in the marketing, though.
- "Waterproof" vinyl is not a waterproof floor. The planks shrug off water, but the joints and the expansion gap at the walls do not hold it out. Water that runs under the floor sits on the subfloor, and a wood subfloor can rot or grow mold there. Rigid-core install guides tell you to caulk the perimeter with silicone in bathrooms and other wet areas for this reason.
- "Water-resistant" laminate has limits. The North American Laminate Flooring Association (NALFA) runs a separate, optional water test on top of its main performance standard, and says laminate is not suitable for bathrooms and other very wet areas unless the maker specifies it as waterproof. Shaw's install guide for its Repel laminate calls it "water resistant, not water proof" and asks for silicone caulk at tubs, toilets and sinks.
So the honest version is: vinyl plank survives spills and splashes without care. Water-resistant laminate survives them if you wipe them up within the time the warranty states. Neither survives a slow leak under the dishwasher or a flooded basement. For those, the plan is a leak sensor and a quick response, not a floor.
Scratches, dents and wear
Laminate's top layer is melamine resin, the same kind of hard surface used on countertops. It handles sand, grit and pet claws very well. Laminate is often sold with an "AC" abrasion class (AC1 to AC5), which comes from the European standard EN 13329. NALFA's own standard, ANSI/NALFA LF-01, does not use AC classes; it tests wear, impact, static load, stains, light fading and swelling, among other things. NALFA also points out that the AC class only measures wear, not scratch or fade resistance. Look for the NALFA seal or the full test list, not just a big AC number on the box.
Vinyl plank's protection is a clear vinyl wear layer measured in mils (thousandths of an inch). Retail products range from very thin to about 20 mils or more. Thicker lasts longer under foot traffic, but it is still a softer surface than melamine: grit under a chair leg or a dog running for the door can leave fine scratches, more so on dark, glossy colors. Felt pads, a doormat at every entry and a vacuum without a beater bar matter more than the brand.
Dents are the other side. Rigid-core vinyl takes a heavy point load less well than laminate, so a piano, a loaded bookcase on small feet or an appliance rolled across it can leave a mark. Use wide furniture cups and lay plywood down when you move a fridge.
Sun, heat and big rooms
Vinyl moves with temperature. Shaw's COREtec rigid-core guide says to avoid long exposure to direct sunlight because it can cause discoloration and thermal expansion, and to close drapes or blinds at peak sun. Its floating floor tolerates room temperatures from about -25°F to 155°F, which is why it is a common pick for cabins and seasonal homes, but a floor in hot sun behind a glass door can still push against the walls and buckle if the expansion gap is too small.
Laminate moves with humidity more than heat. Shaw's laminate guide asks for 3/8 inch at every wall and a T-molding break every 45 feet in length or width. COREtec asks for 1/4 inch in areas under 2,500 sq ft and 1/2 inch above that. Your product's guide is the rule, not this article. Cutting that gap short is the most common reason a floating floor buckles, of either type.
What it really costs: a worked example
Take a 14 x 12 living room and a 12 x 10 bedroom, 288 sq ft in all, laid straight with 10% extra. At 20 sq ft per box, that is 16 boxes either way. Here is the bill at mid-range prices, the same numbers our flooring calculator uses.
| Item | Laminate at $2.25/sq ft | Vinyl plank at $3.00/sq ft |
|---|---|---|
| Flooring, 16 boxes (320 sq ft) | $720 | $960 |
| Foam underlayment, 4 rolls | $140 | $0 (pad attached) |
| Shoe molding, 13 pieces | $117 | $117 |
| 2 transition strips and install kit | $70 | $70 |
| DIY total | $1,047 | $1,147 |
| Pro labor at $1.50–$4 per sq ft | +$432 to $1,152 | +$432 to $1,152 |
The gap is about $100 on two rooms, roughly 10%. It grows with the price tier: a thick-wear-layer vinyl at $4 to $5 per sq ft can cost twice as much as a good laminate. If the laminate you like already has a pad attached, skip the underlayment line and laminate pulls further ahead.
What moves the total more than the floor type: tearing out carpet or tile, leveling a wavy subfloor, stairs (priced per step, not per square foot) and how many doorways need transitions. Get those in writing on any quote.
Installing them: the same job, with two differences
Both are click-lock floating floors, and a careful DIYer can do a couple of rooms in a weekend. The steps are the same: pull the baseboard or shoe molding, check the subfloor, undercut door casings, lay out the rows so the last row is not a sliver, and leave the expansion gap. Two differences matter.
- Cutting. Rigid-core vinyl cuts by scoring with a utility knife and snapping, with no dust. Laminate needs a saw for most cuts, ideally outdoors, because HDF dust is fine and messy.
- Flatness. Both need a flat subfloor, and rigid core is the fussier one, because its click joints are stiff and can crack over a dip. COREtec and Floorte guides ask for no more than 3/16 inch of variation in 10 feet or 1/8 inch in 6 feet. Grind the high spots and fill the low ones before you start.
On concrete, both need a moisture check. Shaw's laminate guide calls for 6-mil polyethylene under the floor on concrete. COREtec sets limits of 8 lb per 1,000 sq ft per 24 hours (calcium chloride test, ASTM F1869) or 90% relative humidity in the slab (ASTM F2170). A basement that sweats in summer is a vinyl job, and the slab test comes first.
Kitchen islands and built-in cabinets should not sit on a floating floor, because they pin it in place. Install the cabinets first and floor around them. Some rigid-core makers allow cabinets on top only if that area is glued down.
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Which floor for which room
| Room | Better pick | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Full bathroom | Vinyl plank | Splashes and puddles every day; seal the edges |
| Kitchen | Vinyl plank | Sink and dishwasher leaks; laminate only if water-rated |
| Laundry, mudroom | Vinyl plank | Wet boots, washer hoses |
| Basement on concrete | Vinyl plank | Slab moisture; test before you buy |
| Living room, bedrooms | Either | Laminate saves money and resists scratches |
| Home with big dogs | Laminate | Claws scratch vinyl sooner; vinyl if accidents are common |
| Sunroom, west-facing glass | Laminate | Vinyl can fade and expand in strong sun |
| Rental unit | Vinyl plank | Forgiving of tenants' spills; single planks are easy to swap |
Running one floor through the whole level looks better and saves transitions. If one room on that level is a kitchen or a bath, that usually decides it for vinyl.
Look, feel and indoor air
Side by side, good laminate often looks more like wood. Many lines have a texture pressed in register with the grain, and the thicker boards feel solid. Rigid-core vinyl has come close, and its sameness across a big room can actually be a plus. Both can sound a bit hollow, since both float; a good attached pad or a quality underlayment cuts the clatter. Vinyl feels slightly softer and warmer underfoot. Laminate feels harder.
On indoor air: laminate's core is composite wood, which falls under the EPA's formaldehyde rule for composite wood products (TSCA Title VI). Products made after March 22, 2019 should carry a TSCA Title VI compliance label. Vinyl is PVC; if emissions matter to you, ask for the product's third-party indoor-air certificate. With either floor, open windows for a few days after install.
Common mistakes with both
- Skipping the gap. Baseboard tight to the planks, or a cabinet on top, and the floor has nowhere to move.
- Doubling the pad. Foam under a plank that already has a pad makes the joints flex and break. Only use what the maker allows.
- Believing "waterproof" means "flood-proof." Water under the floor still damages the subfloor.
- Mixing lots. Color shifts between production runs. Buy every box at once and check the lot number.
- Ignoring the subfloor. A dip you can feel will become a squeak, a gap or a broken joint.
When to hire a pro
Hire out if the subfloor needs leveling over a large area, if there are stairs, if the slab tests wet, or if the floor runs over radiant heat (makers cap the surface temperature, often at 85°F). A pro is also worth it for long open runs where the layout has to line up through several doorways. For one or two plain rooms, either floor is one of the friendliest DIY projects in the house. Ask any installer whether they follow the maker's guide for gaps and moisture, because that is what keeps the warranty valid.
Planning a bigger refresh? Paint before the new floor goes in, and use our paint calculator to size the walls. For an outdoor floor, neither product belongs outside; see the deck calculator instead.
Common questions
Is laminate or vinyl plank better for a kitchen?
Vinyl plank is the safer pick for most kitchens because its core does not swell when water sits on it. A water-resistant laminate can work if you wipe spills quickly and seal the edges, but a dishwasher or sink leak is the kind of slow, hidden water that ruins a wood-based core.
Can you put laminate flooring in a bathroom?
Only if the maker says that product is rated for bathrooms. The North American Laminate Flooring Association says laminate is not suitable for areas with excessive moisture, such as bathrooms, unless the manufacturer specifies it as waterproof. Vinyl plank with the perimeter sealed with silicone is the more common choice.
Which scratches more easily, laminate or vinyl plank?
Vinyl plank usually scratches and scuffs more easily, because its top layer is a softer clear vinyl film. Laminate has a hard melamine top that stands up well to grit and claws. Vinyl resists water better, so the trade-off is scratches versus moisture.
Is vinyl plank flooring cheaper than laminate?
Usually not. Laminate runs about $1.50 to $3 per square foot for the material and vinyl plank about $2 to $5, and installation costs about the same for both. For a 288 square foot area at mid-range prices, laminate with foam underlayment comes to about $1,047 and vinyl plank to about $1,147.
Does vinyl plank flooring need underlayment?
Not if the planks have a pad attached, which most click-lock vinyl plank does. On concrete, some makers allow or ask for a 6-mil plastic vapor retarder underneath. Do not add a second foam pad under a padded plank: the joints can flex and break.
Can I install laminate or vinyl plank over concrete?
Yes, both float over a flat, dry slab. Laminate needs a 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier on concrete, and vinyl makers set a moisture limit. One rigid-core vinyl guide allows up to 90% relative humidity in the slab by ASTM F2170. Test the slab before you buy.
Sources
Prices are US ranges checked in October 2026; they vary by region, store and product line. Install rules differ by product, so your floor's own guide always wins.
- NALFA, Laminate Flooring FAQs (suitable rooms, moisture) and NALFA product certification standards (LF-01 test categories, optional surface swell and water resistance certifications), accessed October 2026
- ANSI, NALFA white paper on wear resistance and AC ratings, January 2023
- Shaw, Repel laminate installation guide (3/8 in gap, 45 ft transitions, 6-mil poly on concrete, "water resistant, not water proof")
- COREtec Pro SPC installation guide (gaps, 3/16 in in 10 ft flatness, -25°F to 155°F, sunlight, moisture limits, cabinets)
- Shaw Floorte vinyl plank installation guidelines (flatness, sunlight, no cabinets on a floating floor)
- US EPA, consumer questions on formaldehyde standards for composite wood products (TSCA Title VI labels)
- Flooring Clarity, flooring cost guide, 2025, and HomeAdvisor, flooring installation cost (material and labor ranges)
- Worked example: HomeOutlay flooring calculator defaults (laminate $2.25 and vinyl plank $3.00 per sq ft, 20 sq ft boxes, foam underlayment $35 per 100 sq ft roll, shoe molding $9 per 8 ft piece, transitions $25, install kit $20), October 2026